Thapathali- The place I call home.

Local tourist in Kathmandu
The Week, My Republica

What is the first that comes to your mind when you think of Thapathali?

The usual traffic snafus amidst people and vehicles always in a hurry: that’s Thapathali, for sure. But this is also the place where I’ve lived all my life, a place I’ve come to associate with home. And I thought, this week I should give you all a glimpse of the place that’s so much more than just chaos. You just have to look beyond the façade. 

Narayan Mandir

Have you noticed the temple opposite KFC on the road that leads you to Tripureshwor? Located in one of the busiest streets of Kathmandu, Narayan Mandir is a perfect place for you to put your feet up and watch as the birds fly in flocks with clear blue sky as the backdrop. The temple’s courtyard was where I learnt the ABCs of playing badminton as a kid with my father as the coach. Today I don’t go there to play but to take in the surroundings. Children who live around the temple gather in the yard in the evenings and play hide-n-seek with their pet dogs scurrying behind them. One activity of theirs never ceases to make me smile – they stand in a queue to slide down the stairs of the temple. Built by Jung Bahadur Rana, the temple still serves as a guthi for the Ranas and has been well preserved till date. Keep an eye out for the omnipresent monkeys that keep a constant vigil on human traffic, especially those who carry snacks.
Bagmati Sweets

Another spot that my father introduced me to, Bagmati Sweets is a must-visit. A small place located behind the Ganesh Temple in Tripureshwor, this eatery can accommodate only 20 people at a time and has swarms of people coming in for piping hot jeri swari, chiya, pakauda, and paneer mo:mo. The paneer mo:mo, which is available only during lunch hours, takes me back to this spot over and over again and it’ll certainly take your taste buds on a pleasant ride.

Thapathali Bridge

The bridge that connects Kathmandu and Patan with the Bagmati flowing underneath isn’t a favourite spot for vehicle drivers waiting on the bridge for the traffic signal to turn green. But if you were not to consider the row of vehicles or the foul smell that permeates the air, this is actually a nice spot to look at Kathmandu Valley. If you walk toward the northern side of Kathmandu via the Thapathali Bridge, the Ganesh Himal Range that you can spot behind the smog is a sight to cherish. Apart from the mountain, my favourite spot to watch the setting sun is the bridge. If you ever get some time, watch the sunset with layers of green hills in the backdrop. The changing colours of the sky reflected on the river, despite its polluted water, is a stunning sight. Nothing is as blissful. I’ll vouch for that.

UN Park

The UN Park that stretches out for 0.66 kilometres is one of the better-maintained green belts in Kathmandu. Despite the at-times heavy traffic and the billowing dust from the street, the park is always quiet and pure, thanks to its varied vegetation. The park invites many fitness enthusiasts at the crack of dawn. The concrete pathway stretching out like a grey ribbon is used for a jog while the open space with soft green grass is crowded with people following the steps of an aerobics teacher who conducts these sessions free of costs. The benches that are painted green to match the foliage are often occupied. There are people who are just lazing around, enjoying conversations with friends or taking in the surroundings. A park like this right in the middle of the city is a wonderful asset. I suggest a run in the park someday – preferably in the morning.

Wind Horse Stable

A small stable that has room for 11 horses is located a little ahead of the Prasuti Griha. The old setting will make you feel as if you’re a part of a classic Western, and the only thing that may be missing is your cowboy attire. On entering, the smell of a barn – the combination of straw, horses, dust, even manure – adds to the ambience. One cannot help but feel excited at the dusty barn with plaid blankets hanging on the wall, the sharp smell of medication used to soothe sore muscles of the animals, the horses snorting, neighing, and kicking their stall doors. The stable is open for riding classes, and once comfortable, one can take a horse for a day’s trip to the outskirts of Kathmandu too!

Thapathali holds amazing spots that are well worth discovering. The ones I’ve mentioned are just a few examples. Venture out and discover other fascinating places for yourself. Believe me, my home area can surprise you at every bend of the road.

Patan Chronicles- Episode 3

Local Tourist in Kathmandu The Week, Republica

For a small city that stretches out to 15.43kms, Patan has a lot to offer - eateries, cultural heritage sites and places where you can just relax and spend a whole day without having to worry about anything. When I started writing about Patan in series, I never imagined I would come this far. There were a few places I knew of, while some were suggestions from friends and families - but I definitely got something out of it. I got a chance to appreciate the rich local culture that Kathmandu has to offer and I hope it gives you the same.

This week, a continuation of the Patan series I take you to places that are like hidden gems waiting for a discovery.

Mahabouddha

Expect to be greeted with a majestic gate that leads you to a small alley with shops displaying various items relating to Lord Buddha. On exiting the alley, I gasped. A shrine – a nearby shopkeeper proclaimed it at 100 feet in height - made of clay bricks had Lord Buddha’s statue engraved all over the towering monument. The terracotta structure is a fourteenth-century architectural masterpiece and is believed to be a model of the Mahabodhi Temple at Bodhgaya, India. I asked the priest how many of the engravings were present - he told me the it was 9,999. I tried counting but soon gave up. The warmth of the hundreds of butter lamps kept me from the winter chill while I admired the majestic temple. Surrounded by residential and guest houses, the small platform on the back of the shrine is a fine spot to rest Visit Mahabouddha on a holiday and complete the task that I couldn’t - count the number of statues.

Almaya Fried Chicken

Located further ahead from Sundhara in Patan, towards your left is a small board that announces Almaya Fried Chicken. Let not the smallish entrance deter you from the delicious food on offer. Named after the Arabic word that translates to ‘floating in water’, Almaya is a family-run eatery and serves Newari dishes and delicious chicken. A place that is frequented by doctors, engineers, locals, musicians, and tourists, Almaya serves delicious, juicy fried chicken in kilos at pocket-friendly prices. Joni dai, the head of the kitchen is the one who revamped the menu –that stayed dominant for the past 22 years- with all the skills that he got during his diploma from Subway. Next time your stomach starts to rumble, visit Almaya Fried Chicken!

P.S. They are open to home delivery too!

Jyapu Museum

Living in a city that was a once a predominantly Newar community, you are bound to know all that the history has in plate for us to bring us where we are today. Jyapu Samajh, a social organization that aims at preserving and developing ethnic language and culture, opened the Jyapu Museum located toward the north-east from Patan Durbar Square. For a non- Newar like me, exploring this museum was a great delight. From life-size models depicting lifestyle, vocation and cultural events to the miniature handcrafted models of indigenous ethnic people of Nepal and major cultural festivals of the Newar community - all of it was exciting and educational at the same time. Ravin Maharjan, who looks after the museum complains about the lack of tourists who visit the museum. Even though the museum is aimed at tourists, how about we - the locals- visit this place?

Pimbahal

Need a spot to soak up the sun this winter? Pimbahal is the place you are looking for. The largest pond in Kathmandu Valley which is believed to have inspired Rani Pokhari’s structure, Pimbahal dates back to the 14th century. Thronged by the public all year through, Pimbahal was built to overcome the acute water problems in the city. A small shed that resembles a Newari falcha located in the center of the pond, this spot will give you a beautiful view of the pond. The best time to visit Pimbahal is early in the morning when the sun glistens against the water and gives you a feeling that cannot be explained in plain words.

As I end the Patan Escapade with this episode today, I hope the cold weather did not stop you from hunting out for these places that I have had fun exploring and sharing.

Patan Chronicles, Episode 2

Local Tourist in Kathmandu, The Week, Republica

For me, Patan resembles a place straight out of a storybook. With close to 1,200 temples, stupas,and bahals of various shapes and sizes scattered throughout the squares and the fascinating backstreets in and outside the old city, there’s something about Patan that just lures you back, time and again.

A continuation to last week’s column, this week too we explore the nooks and crannies of the small yet delightful city.

The Courtyard
With the winter setting in, the sun is a welcome change from grey skies and cold days. There’s really nothing more reviving than a cold, crisp winter day where the sun is high and bright. My favorite hangout to soak up the warm sun is the main courtyard of Patan Durbar Square. Snacking on local badam and oranges, I often sit on the long plank placed at the very entrance of the Patan Museum. Consider yourself lucky if you manage to find a seat here. Wait if you have to because it’ll be worth it. Watching the world go by as children swing on the chains placed as barriers to the quadrangle, while hearing elderly men chatting about how things have changed over the years, can spice up any ordinary winter day.


Honacha

A place that has managed to stand tall even after the Nabbe Saalko Bhuinchalo (the 1934 earthquake), Honacha has won many hearts. A family business started by Chori Kesh Lal more than a century ago, the thought of Honacha makes mouths water when your stomach starts to rumble if you’ve tasted their delicacies. Merina Didi, who makes up to 300-400 baras in a day, says, ‘The work is very hectic. But seeing people devour some thingsthat are from my great-grandfather’s kitchen makes me happy.’ 

The boy who has been employed at Honacha for over three years claims he walks close to 12 kilometers a day when at work. Wonder how? With the number of customers who visit Honacha during the lunch hour and evenings make him run up and down the tall flight of stairs delivering orders after orders, leaving him with no time to rest. He has enviable calf muscles that are every man’s dream.

Patan Museum

Home to the Malla kings in the 15th century which has now been turned into Patan Museum, it’s an address you must explore. This UNESCO Heritage Site, which is thronged by tourists, is famous for the Mul Chowk, Keshav Narayan Chowk and Sundari Chowk. Each chowk has something different to offer, and the intricate designs and carvings will make you wonder, like I often do, how our ancestors managed to build such intricate structures. After a tour of the Patan Museum, your trip isn’t complete unless you climb up to the top floor and look at the open museum. Have never heard of the open museum? Well, the view from the roof of the palace is nothing less than walking around the museum itself. A bird’s eye view of the buzz in the square and the most picturesque collection of historic buildings that are some of the finest examples of Newar architecture in Nepal is a must-see.

Tato yomaris

For a non-Newar like me who loves to gobble down the delicious dumpling made of chaku and khuwa, seeing photos of Yomaris all over Facebook during Yomari Punih was painful. Last year, while reaching out to my Newar friends to trade a few Yomaris with anything that my mother cooks best, a friend suggested The Village Cafe located in Pulchowk. A traditional cafe dedicated to Newar cuisine, The Village Cafe not only serves Chaku and Khuwa yomari but has also recently introduced chocolate yomari, which is equally good. The soft and smooth dough with variety of fillings that melts in one’s mouth is definitely my favorite dessert. One piece of information I learnt last week: Ever wondered why Yomari is shaped the way it is? According to our culture, the longer the tail, the shorter the winter chills!

Patan chronicles- Episode 1

A local tourist in KathmanduThe Week, Republica

Patan is a veritable treasure trove, a mine of hidden gems that need discovery. This week and in the next few I will revisit old memories and hope to take you along in my journey of rediscovery of the myriad cultural elements, open courtyards amidst human habitation standing cheek and jowl, eateries, art galleries, and places of worship.

Golden Temple

Golden Temple happened for the first time last week. Greeted by a simple entrance which had a beautiful Kalachakramandala carved into its ceiling I could never have imagined all that the small courtyard could hold- magnificent sculptures and elements of gold everywhere I looked. The temple is believed to been built during the 1400s. The low him of monks chanting in the praying room is as intoxicating to the senses. The long chains of gold plates that hang down the roof caught my attention and curious I asked one of the priestsabout them. He replied, ‘There are two versions of the story behind the gold chain. One say that these chains acted as a stairway to heaven and were constructed by the rich. The other story says that they are meant to invite the Gods from heaven. Which one would you believe?’ The Newarmonastery that gleams when the sun is up in the sky looks equally beautiful when visited in the evenings.

Rato Chowk

Rato chowk is the well-kept secret that is a seeming oasis in the midst of the bustling Banglamukhi. Located in the premises of Image Ark which is a creative studio with an exhibition space, Rato Chowk is a quiet place for art lovers to meet and find inspiration among artwork. A good cup of freshly brewed coffee best enjoyed with chocolate browniethat Asmita Didi bakes in her spare time should keep you good company. Image Ark is now exhibiting photographs byPaivi Wells that explores the rhythms of the city and its multifaceted expressions in her own unique style. This is great time to visit this smallish wonder.

Melting Pot

With rising in power cuts, my room usually smells of handmade Ama Candles that smell of lavender and rose. Not to forget the sweet pleasures of taking a few bites from the local chocolates that are made in Patan. Ama, the proprietor’smother makes candles and chocolates which are her original recipe. Apart from this, Melting Pot is a store that bustles with local handmade products - from hemp t-shirts to organic coffee beans and wild honey. This store promotes local artists and once inside, you can enjoy the good music playing in the background while browsing old track records on sale.

Special Chiya

I discovered this place last winter. Not easily visible to a passerby with a sign that reads ‘You get special tea here’ on a random wall, one does not expect much while entering the gate that is guarded by statues of lions on each side. The lions are silent sentinels to a courtyard that has a monastery, and a place that offers special tea. This is run by an old couple. The lady says that this is something that has been keeping her finances on the better side for almost a decade now. Settle on the low straw chairs in the courtyard surrounded by old mud houses and a view of the clear blue sky above. Sip on the hot chiya and while away time with friends - your must-do this winter.

This week I leave you with these four discoveries that will make your visit to Patan worth the while.

Remember me

How would people remember me?

As the girl with a mole on her lips? 

The one who never failed to keep her kajal undone. 

Maybe as the girl who was loud when she was expressing something unnecessary.

Or as the girl whose bob hair grew up to her shoulders over winter with signs of fringes by spring. 

The girl who sang along with her ringtone when it played Penny Lane. 

Probably as the girl who tried to hide her feminine moustache with her fingers when someone got close. 

Or the one whose boots echoed-her only pair of brown knee length boots- as she walked over concrete. 

The girl who loved travelling via public transport just to take in the chaos?  

Or as the one who never finished reading Haruki Murakami's The elephant vanishes? 

Would I be remembered as the girl who called herself an atheist but selfishly called out for God when she was in trouble? 

                                                                                            How would you remember me?